A little bit of troubleshooting an HVAC prior to calling out a technician might be able to save you some money. If you’re mechanically inclined and feel comfortable doing so, here are some tips to help you ascertain what may be causing your HVAC problems.

Lower the temperature and switch your thermostat to the AC setting. The issue is not with the furnace if the fan turns on. Try to reset the furnace’s circuit breaker if the fan will not operate. Call a professional AC repair Lewis Center, OH technician if your fan still will not turn on; the solutions provided here will not work.

Check the external condensing unit next. Both the fan and the compressor, which makes a refrigerator-like noise, should be operating. If not, adhere to the diagnostic and repair steps listed below.

Disconnect the power

Before removing the exterior disconnect or the access panel for the condensing unit, turn off the breakers for the furnace and air conditioner in the primary electrical panel. Then, to ensure that the power is indeed off there, put an electrical tester on the cables entering the contactor.

Find out how a central residential air conditioner works

The important and core parts of central home air conditioning systems are the unit’s evaporator coil, for your heater or your air handler, as well as the condenser, housed in the part of the HVAC that is on the outside of your house.

The refrigeration solution in the A-coil conducts heat from within your home to the exterior condensing unit. The fan located in your condensing unit moves outside air over the coil in order to evacuate heat. The fan motor, start capacitor, run capacitor, as well as AC contactor are the three parts that a do-it-yourselfer can replace.

The condenser also houses the compressor, but a specialist is required to replace it. Your A-coil has no repairable components for non-technicians.

• Disconnect the power
• Pull the disconnection block out completely by opening the electrical box adjacent to your condensing unit.
• To verify that the power has actually been turned off, use a voltage analyzer to see inside the box.

Condenser coils should be cleaned

Condenser cleaning is not difficult and should be done frequently to extend the life of your air conditioner. By aiming your lawn sprayer upward and toward the highest part of the metal coil that contains the condenser, you may clean out the buildup of muck beneath the lid.

Make a full circuit of your coil. Next, point the sprayer downward while flushing the waste down between the coil fins. Turn the hose to a gentler stream and direct water straight into the unit’s coils to flush out any remaining debris.

Examine the fuses

Many disconnect blocks contain a pair of cartridge fuses on the inside. Click here for more on fuses. Before you begin any HVAC repairs, check the fuses first. A blown fuse is a sign that a part inside the condenser unit is malfunctioning. Therefore, do not just replace fuses and think the problem is addressed.

Instead, replace the parts, insert new fuses, and turn on the appliance. If it pops once again, get help immediately since you seem to be plagued by more severe issues.

The Disconnect Block Fuses: How to Check Them

Connect the red to the black leads on the opposing ends of each fuse while your multimeter is set to the very lowest Ohms scale. The fuse is functional if you receive a numerical reading.

Start Capacitor Replacement

There is at minimum one capacitor in each HVAC unit. Once the condenser and the compressor fan (https://web.mit.edu/2.972/www/reports/compression_refrigeration_system/compression_refrigeration_system.html) start up, the two motors receive an additional power boost from the electrolytic capacitor, which stores energy then releases it. Additionally, it lessens voltage oscillations to prevent harm to the compressor fans motor and the condenser.

Capacitors may gradually degrade and lose some of their initial power over time. Or they can fall short right away. The motor windings from the condenser and compressors fan may get stressed over time as a result of slow capacitor breakdown, which might result in early failure. Due to their low cost, capacitors should be proactively replaced every five years.

Replacing a Capacitor

• Before disconnecting anything, take a picture of the cables (you might need it later as a reference).
• Discharge the old capacitor’s energy reserve.
• One wire at a time should be detached from the used capacitor using needle-nose pliers, and it should then be snapped onto the appropriate tab on the new capacitor. The capacitor tabs should be securely snapped onto the female crimp connections.
• Check each connector’s tightness by wiggling it. If it isn’t, take the connection out and bend the tapered ends of it so that it fits the tab more snugly.
• After switching out all the wires, fasten the new capacitor.
• Before cutting wires or removing the capacitor from its mounting, discharge it.